4 Tips to Place Better in Your Next Climbing Comp

One of the reasons climbing is a great sport for adults is the accessibility to competition. Many of us grow up competing in various sports, but as we grow up, we stop competing. Luckily, many gyms have competitions a handful of times throughout the year, with different ability categories and sick prizes. This even gives the newer climbers the ability to win gear from a competition! Every competition is different when it comes to the organization, the rules, and the format, but there are similarities between every style of competition. Whether you are a veteran competitor or preparing for your first climbing comp, here are four strategies to climb to your fullest potential!

Time Management

The first and most important is managing your time. The “Redpoint” format is the most common format. Redpoint format is when every competitor is competing and climbing during the same three to four-hour chunk of time on the same boulders. The boulders will range in difficulty, and there will likely be certain boulders designated to each competing category. (Ex: beginner, intermediate, advanced, open). You will typically be trying to climb the hardest boulders you can, and the only ones that will count towards your score are the top 3-5 highest-scoring boulders you complete.

Understand the Scoring System

Before you start climbing, make sure you fully understand how points are awarded. Know the time limits, which problems are worth the most points, and how many attempts you get. This knowledge helps you strategize effectively and prioritize which problems to attempt first versus later in the competition.

Have a Game Plan

Don't just wander around randomly trying problems. Create a strategy: Which problems will you tackle first? When will you take longer rests? Having a plan prevents wasted time and energy, ensuring you make the most of those three to four hours.

In a competition format like this, you must manage your time well in order to yield the best results. Three to four hours is a long time to be climbing at your maximum ability, and it’s easy to get burnt out before your session is over. Let’s highlight the two ways to manage your time in the best way possible.

Maximize Your Ability

Because you'll likely be attempting boulders harder than you normally climb, hoping to top them for maximum points there's still a smart strategy to follow.

Secure Points Early

It's tempting to immediately dive into the hardest problems, trying over and over to send them. But this often backfires. You might find yourself with 20 minutes left, only one or two problems topped, and too exhausted to complete easier boulders you could have flashed earlier for guaranteed points.

The Smart Approach:

Before attacking problems at your limit, first run through onsight-level boulders, problems you're confident you can top on the first try. Get those points on the board. Once you have a solid base score, then start giving maximum effort on the harder stuff to rack up additional points.

Read the Route First

Before you grab the first hold, take a step back and study the problem:

• Look for hidden holds or features

• Notice chalk marks showing where others have grabbed

• Consider rest positions and shake-out spots

• Mime out the sequence from the ground to memorize the beta

Commit Fully to Your Beta

When you start climbing, commit 100% to your intended sequence. Half-hearted attempts waste energy and rarely succeed. If your beta doesn't work, you can always adjust on the next attempt but give it everything you've got the first time.

Rest

Secondly, make sure you REST. The competition atmosphere is electric, and you might feel as if everyone is buzzing around, climbing as fast as they can.

But in reality, rushing between attempts is a horrible tactic that will sabotage your performance.

Why Rest Matters

Without taking adequate rest breaks, you'll burn out halfway through the allotted climbing time. Your forearms will be pumped, your fingers weak, and your body depleted. Once you're in this state, even problems well below your ability become impossible.

The 5-10 Minute Rule

If you give a really hard attempt especially one where you fall near the top or climb until complete failure, rest at least 5-10 minutes before trying another maximum-effort problem. If you don't give your body this recovery time, your next attempt will be weaker, and you'll make little to no progress.

Repeating this pattern of insufficient rest will break your body down quickly. Within an hour or so, you'll feel too exhausted to climb anything. After all, you wouldn't try to max your deadlift every couple of minutes at the gym, right? Treat your climbing attempts with the same respect.

Active Recovery During Rest

During your rest periods:

• Walk around to keep blood flowing

• Shake out your arms

• Drink water and have a snack

• Visualize your next attempt

• Use breathing techniques to stay calm and focused

Remember: longer rest = stronger attempts = better performance.

Fuel Your Body (Bring Snacks and Water)

The last tip is going to sound simple, but it's maybe the most important: bring snacks and lots of water! Three to four hours is a very long time to exert yourself at maximum capacity. You'll be burning massive amounts of energy, and without a plan to replenish that fuel, you'll start feeling burnt out before time is up.

Warning Signs of Low Fuel

Symptoms of inadequate nutrition while exercising include:

• Feeling tired or sluggish

• Shaky hands or trembling muscles

• Nausea or light-headedness

• Brain fog or inability to focus

• Low energy and motivation

Ideally, you want to eat something before these symptoms appear. But if you start feeling any of these, take a long break immediately and eat a snack.

What to Bring

Pack easily digestible, energy-dense snacks:

• Energy bars or granola bars

• Bananas or dates (quick carbs)

• Trail mix or nuts

• Pretzels for salt replacement

• Energy gels or chews for quick fuel

Hydration is Critical

Drink more water than you think you need. Dehydration significantly reduces strength, endurance, and mental focus. By the time you feel thirsty, you're already dehydrated. Keep a water bottle nearby and sip regularly throughout the competition, not just between climbs.

Competition Day Nutrition Tips:

• Eat a carb-heavy meal 2-4 hours before competing (oatmeal, sweet potato, rice)

• Have a small snack 30-60 minutes before start time (banana, dates, energy gel)

• Avoid high-fat and high-fiber foods on competition day (slow digestion, discomfort)

• Bring sports drinks for electrolyte replacement if you sweat heavily, your body will thank you by crushing it!